Hard water is not considered harmful to your health, but it can cause ugly stains from scale build up in sinks, tubs, and elsewhere if left unchecked. People notice the stains, but they are generally unaware of the significant hidden costs of the scale build until it is too late.
Scale is formed when minerals (usually calcium) are precipitated out of water. The scaling process accelerates dramatically when the temperature of the water increases or when water travels across the electrically charged plates in a water ionizer.
The hidden costs of hard water scaling:
While hard water scale strains are annoying, the more significant problem is the cost associated with scale buildup. Hot water tanks create scale at a rapid rate as the heat facilitates the precipitation of calcium out of the water. The scale forms on the two heating elements in the tank. As the scale builds up, more and more energy is required to heat up the water in the tank. Nobody thinks about the additional cost of heating their hot water because it is out of sight and out of mind. However, the energy wasted can amount to several hundred dollars per year. Additional costs from scaling show up in the form of shortened lifespans of heat producing appliances such as dishwashers, washing machines, kettles, and water ionizers. Additional costs show up in the form or replacing taps and sinks. The greatest cost of all, can come in the form of having to replace water lines if excessive scaling is not kept in check.
What is hard water and how is it measured?
Hard water is water with a high mineral content. The primary components of water hardness are the cations (Ca 2+) and Magnesium (Mg 2+), with calcium playing the major role. Calcium usually enters the water as either calcium carbonate (CaCO3,) in the form of limestone and chalk, or calcium sulfate (CaSO4). The predominant source of magnesium is dolomite (CaMg(CO3)2). Less significant contributors to water hardness are other dissolved compounds such as the anions of bicarbonates ( HCO3−) and sulfates (SO2−4).
Water hardness is measured in parts per million (ppm) or grains per gallon (gpg). In the USA, 1 gpg = 17.1 ppm. In Canada, 1 gpg = 14.2 pmp. I prefer parts per million as the measure is consistent in both countries. There is no absolute definition of levels of water hardness. However, it is generally accepted that the following categories of water hardness exist:
- Soft: Below 17 ppm [or 0-1 American gpg]
- Medium: 17.1 – 60 ppm [or 1 - American 3 gpg]
- Medium Hard: 61 – 120 ppm [or 3 - 7 American gpg]
- Hard: 121 – 200 ppm [or 7 – 11 American gpg]
- Very Hard: Over 200 ppm [or over 11 American gpg
It is recommended that anyone that has hard or very hard water take measures to reduce the level of hardness, particularly from the hot water lines. My focus is on water ionizers, and they definitely require some form of assistance to remove calcium from hard water. The plates of a water ionizer will quickly get covered with scale in hard water which will render the ionization process useless.
Reducing hard water for an entire house:
The traditional method of reducing water hardness was to use a salt based water softener. The keep the discussion really short and simple, the system captures calcium and magnesium with beads, and then washes out the beads with salt each day. The state of California has banned the sale of salt based water softeners. I expect that we will see the ban extended to other jurisdictions over time, because the high sodium content of softened water is absorbed by your skin during showers or baths. When people use water softeners, it is recommended that the soft water not be used for drinking water, as the level of sodium typically exceeds maximum acceptable levels and definitely exceeds recommending intake levels of sodium by a wide margin. We are now seeing growth in salt free water softeners, which are much healthier for your skin.
You can also eliminate water hardness with a distillation system or a reverse osmosis machine. However the process is very slow and wastes a great deal of water. As such, a reverse osmosis or distillation system is typically reserved for purifying drinking water. I don’t care for either system if any other alternative is possible because the systems strip all of the minerals required by your body out of the water.
Reducing hardness in your drinking water:
As I stated earlier, hard water won’t hurt you. However, it wrecks havoc with you drinking water line and tap, as scale builds up. Homes that use salt based water softeners should always have a bypass before the water softener so that you never drink water that has passed through the softener. If you use a salt-free water softener, you don’t need a bypass because the water is safe to drink and it will not scale up your water line or taps. If you are thinking about installing a water softener, make sure it is a salt-free system. The salt-free systems typically pay for themselves in about two years, so they are an excellent investment.
If you already use use a salt based water softener and you don’t have a a bypass system under your kitchen sink, you will need a RO system to eliminate the sodium from your drinking water supply. If you are stuck with a RO system under your sink, you will need to replenish the minerals in your drinking water with mineral drops, or by installing an in-line remineralizing filter in order to provide your body with the minerals it requires.
What to do about hard water if you want to purchase a water ionizer?
Scaling from hard water has disastrous results for water ionizers. Therefore, you have to deal with hard water, or don’t bother purchasing a water ionizer at all. Since water ionizers are so import to your health, find a solution that works the best for you.
If you don’t have a water softener and you need one, make sure you purchase a salt-free system. The system will prevent scaling and it will allow your water ionizer to work efficiently.
If you already have a salt based water softener and you want to purchase a water ionizer, you have a number of options:
A) Bypass the water softener and install an inline magnet just before the water ionizer – one time cost of about $95
B) Bypass the water softener and install an inline phosphate filter before the water ionizer – cost $40 every six months for a phosphate filter
C) Install a RO system under your sink and add an inline remineralization filter – cost about $400 + $40 per remineralization filter
D) Replace your salt based water softener with a salt-free water softener – cost about $1,000
You can also combine A) and B) or you can add A) and B) to D). It all depends upon the level of hardness. These options all add to your costs, but nothing is more important to your health.
The opinions expressed in this article are those of the author based upon his research and experiences working with hard water conditions across the country.
Related posts:
- Tags: calcium, hard water, hot water heater, magnesium, minerals, water softener
Rob:
Thanks again for all your help. I feel much more informed and better able to make a good decision.
Take care.
Gord & Tricia
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Hi Gord & Tricia:
Thanks for the kind words. It is my pleasure to help.
It is rare when I recommend using a reverse osmosis system, but your situation called for it. With all the contaminants in your well water, the best solution was to eliminate the impurites with a RO system and then rebuild the water by adding minerals. Once you have the RO system in place, you can choose the water ionizer that best suits your needs.
Good luck with everything and let us know how it turns out for you.
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Dear Rob, I am following your blog – I also am an Enagic Dist. For those of you who have an Enagic device, – there is a cleaning powder available (citric acid) which deals with the hard water situation. At a cost of less than $1 – you can clean your plates whenever you want. I have friends in Phoenix where they have hard water – initially after a couple months – there was a silt that started coming out of the device and settling on the bottom of the glass. Now after cleaning regularly – no problems. So this is one of the good features of the device. I too dont like the price – would love to know of another device if it is comparable but more reasonable with the same capabilities. I love the 2.5 and 11.5! Would like to know more about this Vollara and DDT.
Thank you, Pamela
Thank you! Pamela
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Hi Pamela:
Thanks for stopping by and making a comment. I love the great work that the Enagic dealers do in spreading the word. I just wish that Enagic would update their machines and drop their price in half so that their dealers were not at a huge disadvantage.
I know of several machines that will do what the Enagic machines do and more….for a fraction of the price. I’m wary of the Vollara and would be a bystander for a couple of years until we see how the machine performs over time. My fear for Vollara is that if and when the machine has earned credibility, the cost of the competitive prodcuts will be much lower than $2,000. While there is definitely merit in being first in when it comes to MLM, I just wouldn’t be first in when it comes to an unproven product when there are great alternatives. But that’s just me.
The citric acid powder is a great cleaner of scale. Many people use vinegar, but I have found the citric acid to be superior. When I was in the business, we used to have to clean machines for customers. We used an aquarium pump and hooked the pump up to the ionizing chamber and continuously ran the water through the ionizing chamber. For those that are not in the business, the easiest way to clean scale out of a machine is to follow the following instructions:
1) remove the drain line (the outflow line)
remove the plug from the drain line in the bottom of the machine
2) place the machine over a sink and blow through the drinking line to force the water out of the ionizing chamber through the drain line
3) plug up the outflow line
4) mix one ounce of citric acid with eight ounces of water in solution
5) turn the drinking line so that it faces the ceiling
6) pour the mixed solution into the drinking line until it starts backing up out of the drinking line (it is easier if you do this with a syring)
7) leave the solution in the machine for a couple of hours to work away at removing the scale
9) blow the solution out of the machine by blowing through the drinking line while the machine is in the sink
10) run the machine with pure water for a few minutes
11) test the machine with pH drops
12) repeat if necessary
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Rob, the scale problem isn’t just about the scale. It’s also very much about the attention owners give to their water ionizer and the instructions dealers give them. If you see a seller who says their unit ‘never needs cleaning’ they are probably inexperienced.
Hard water IS a problem with water ionizers and it has 3 aspects:
1. The filter; no water ionizer filter has any ability to affect hard water levels and
2. The plates. Even the best of cleanse systems can still accrete minerals.
3. The internal tubes and spout. if you are ina hard water area and you notice your flow rate reducing chances are it’s not the filter blocking up: it’s very likely that internal tubing is clogging up like an artery. This IS a problem because it needs a tech call or dealer repair to fix it and it WILL happen again. A good vinegar rinse every 2 weeks for people with hard water is essential no matter what your brand.
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Hi Ian:
I agree with you 100% about the fact that it is the responsibility of the dealers to educate their customers about their source water and the capabilities and limitations of their machines. I wrote an article about the importance of choosing the right person to purchase a water ionizer from instead of focusing on the difference between the products. A good dealer will help you with your issues and concerns, while the multitude of websites just pump out promotional material to support their products. You can read the article here: http://www.waterfyi.com/water-ionizers/invest-person-not-brand/
I also agree with your statement that no water ionizer provides a built-in filter that can affect hard water levels. However, a phosphate pre-filter will do an excellent job of dealing with scaling for up to six months. The phosphate from the filter is released into the water supply in very minute amounts just before the water enters your water ionizer. The phosphate destabilizes the calcium in the water so that it will not form a hard scale on the plates. Scale is still formed, but it is soft, and can be flushed away by running acidic water through the machine slowly for one minute each day.
All plates will get scaled up in the presence of water with a high calcium content. When it comes to scaling, the plates in an ionizer will precipitate the calcium out of the water, just like a hot water tank will cause calcium to precipitate. The use of a phosphate filter and backwashing with the acidic water will help alleviate the situation.
You are correct that a slowing water flow is usually the sign of scaling. The only other alternative is that the filters are near the end of their useful life, but the machines will warn you when this happens. I have used the vinegar rinse and it is a good suggestion. I have found that a citric acid rinse is more effective than vinegar. Citric acid powder can be purchased very economically online and it can be mixed with water in 8:1 ratio (8 parts water and 1 part citric acid).
Hard water scaling is a problem for a lot of machines, but if you follow the above suggestions, the problem can be controlled.
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Thanks for the compliment. I had to look up the word phlebotomy so I learned something….you collect blood samples.
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